News flash Turnigy Stadium King 2wd truggy / ZD Racing ZMT-10 Brushed motor model is 3s capable

Well I decided just for giggles to see is a 3s lipo would burn up the esc for my ZMT-10 and was surprised to find out that the esc recognized that the pack was a 3s . Normally the esc ( currently in a Clodbuster ) Goes through its little beep sequence and I give it little thought but when I hooked up a 3s lipo to the esc I knew something was different instead of the normal BEEP-BEEPBEEP-BEEP IT WENT BEEP-BEEPBEEPBEEP-BEEP signalling that the voltage cut off recognized that the pack was a 3 cell I couldn't believe it . after driving for a bit the esc showed no heat increase so I feel safe in saying this esc is good to go on 3s lipos but I still recommend a lipo alarm as the voltage cut off is too low for my taste.

Well been beating on my truck.

Thought I would post up this video of me beating on the ZD racing ZMT-10 ?Turnigy Stadium king with its brushless system back in action .

Hope you enjoy .

Traxxas Rustler VS Turnigy Stadium King 2wd Truggy / ZD Racing ZMT-10

Having owned a Rustlers In about every version that Traxxas has  produced I believe I can speak on this .

For my comparison of these 2 cars I'm going to focus on the Rustler XL-5 model #3705 that is currently in production .

To start the average price of the Traxxas Rustler is around $205 + shipping and the Turnigy Stadium king will cost around $148 shipped . Its twin the ZD Racing  ZMT-10 can generally be found for around $120 or less shipped .

References to the ZD Racing ZMT-10 pertain to the Turnigy Stadium King also.

Two important differences is in plastic quality and assembly quality . The ZMT-10 has slightly stiffer plastic and this can make some components  more breakable  ( I found this most noticeable in the front bulk head). As far as assembly quality this mostly relates to the shocks and excess clearances in some components . With the shocks there main flaws are not having there O-rings lubed before assembly or incorrect filling of the shocks . When I mention excess clearances I'm mostly talking about the play in the steering system and the differential . Both of these have been talked about else where this blog .

Ok next thing would be hardware the Traxxas rustler uses good quality screws and instead of using Philips head screw they now use hex style heads .The ZMT-10 has Philips head screw and they are made of a softer material than normal and are easier to strip .

Electronics as far as out of the box the Rustler Win's in almost all categories but most people should bare in mind your probable going to swap most of these items out with better equipment no matter what truck you buy. The rustler comes with all water proof electronics except for the receiver . The ZMT-10  doesn't  .
The Rustler comes with a high current battery connector the ZMT-10 doesn't . The  trucks in my opinion both have comparable  radio systems that function well but the Traxxas system has a more modern look to it .

Motor's are a big difference in these trucks . The Rustler comes with the titan 550 12 turn motor and can propel the rustler to speeds of about 30 mph but has been known to leave a few people wanting longer motor life . The ZMT-10 has a generic 540 that I have no specs on but seems to be around a 20 turn motor and provides  20 mph.

Battery's and chargers for both trucks leave a bit to be desired (but these are targeted for beginners )the ZMT-10 comes with a 2400 mah 6-cell battery pack and a 110 volt wall charger good for around a 1.5 amp charge rate. Traxxas includes a 3000 mah 7-cell battery pack( good for a 4-5 mph boost over a 6-cell ) and a very similar charger.

Tires and wheels are also important . Both trucks have 2.8 inch wheels with 12 mm hexes  but use a different tire beads that seem to make make them in compatible . Even though I don't really like the newer Traxxas rims they are better than the ZMT-10's rims. The ZMT-10 does win in regards to tires . In my opinion they beat the rustlers tires when it comes to traction in the dirt . Given there soft nature they do wear rapidly when run on asphalt or concrete. 

Adjustability can be a important factor and out of the box the ZMT-10 has a few more options than the Traxxas truck due to additional camber links in different lengths and different steering links to change front toe. The rustler does come with adjustable steering links to change front toe.

Drivetrain is also a bit different . The Rustler comes with full ball bearings and Traxxas's 272 magnum transmission with all metal drive gears .The ZMT-10 has 2 ball bearings and 4 bushing with full metal gears of a slightly fine pitch than the Traxxas transmission possibly making it more efficient but also weaker . Traxxas uses plastic slider shafts with plastic yokes for the drive axles . ZD optioned to use metal dog bones and metal drive cups in my testing they have held up great. Traxxas has started using there revo style slipper clutches and to be blunt its tuff . The ZMT-10 is using a more conventional pad based slipper clutch system that should lend to comparability with other brands spur gears and pads.

All that is really left is driving and to be honest there really isn't much difference the 2 are almost Identical with the only difference being that the ZMT-10 has a slightly shorter wheelbase  but in my experience this  is hardly noticeable .

I do recommend doing a little reading about the recommended upgrades for the Traxxas Rustler and remember most of the parts for the rustler are a complete bolt on for the ZD Racing ZMT-10 or Turnigy Stadium King 2wd Truggy .

ZD Racing ZMT-10 Large (1:10 Scale) R/C Off-Road 2WD Truggy w/NiMH Rechargeable Battery & 2.4GHz 3-Channel Remote Get ready for some off-road action with this ZD Racing ZMT-10 Large (1:10 Scale) R/C Off-Road 2WD Truggy! With a powerful 540-level 3600Kv brushed electric motor, this Truggy can go on any terrain at more than 40 miles per hour! It's built-in shock absorbers and extra long suspension arms helps improves stability and handling while on the go! Constructed of an aircraft grade T6 aluminum upper deck and a high-strength plastic chassis, this Truggy can handle even the toughest course. Includes a 3-channel remote control that operates at 2.4 GHz frequency. Simply charge the NiMH battery and go! Get this ZD Racing ZMT-10 Large (1:10 Scale) R/C Off-Road 2WD Truggy today! Order now!

Traxxas 1/10 Rustler RTR Electric RC Truck Traxxas 1/10 Rustler RTR Electric RC Truck

My review on the stock brushed ZMT-10 / Turnigy Stadium King

Well I am going to start this out as part 1 of my review Now I'm not going to go into grave detail here because most of what I would right I have already written so If you want more there are links at the top and bottom for my information page for this truck,

I have now put several packs through the truck and can say it has not given much to complain about I still wish It had a better motor in it although it did run 17+ mph (soon to be retest ) and as far as top speed is concerned that isn't terrible but I wish It had a little more punch  and the bulkhead breaking was a let down but a Traxxas bulkhead is only around $5.00.

So far I have had little reason to think that this little truck can't fill the void left by the ECX car's moving up the price scale . Once  the battery was cycled a couple times I was able to get ruffly 10 min's drive time in my gravel driveway and yard. That's not to bad for a 2400 mah battery pack .

After running the truck for a while I finally found my pinion gear puller and swapped the stock brass pinion for a steel one meant for the Traxxas bandit .

But all in all I can say for a RTR truck it's a  good value in my opinion but I'm not to sure I would recommend it for a beginner . The main reason I say this is mostly due to the fact that there are things that should be done to this truck to prolong its life and to reduce maintenance . I have made a list here of some  things I recommend  to do to the truck soon after you buy .

 top-ten-things-you-should-do-after you buy 

Some of these things are very simple but others a beginner may not feel comfortable with .

 Now I have broke my grading  in to 10 sections.

1) Top Speed B- 17mph + that's not to bad. 

2) Pavement Driving C+ rear end likes to spin out a bit till the pins are wore down.

3) Loose Surface Driving A When new the rear tires can actually fling some dirt and gets great traction ,front are definitely above average.

4) Jumping AThe Truck flies smooth with a nose up attitude , to make this truck nose dive takes effort.

5) Durability B- In my opinion with a new bulkhead the truck it's self is just as durable as the competition The body and rim's sadly are not.

6) Ease of Use D The recommended upgrades and modifications really hurt it here.

7) Parts Availability C- The parts that can't be replaced with Traxxas components are hard to get, hobby king has been restocking parts but so far demand has kept them at a negative inventory  .

8 ) Price A- My ZMT-10 model was $120 shipped , The Turnigy version would run me $138 delivered( If there smart they will get this into the U.S. warehouse that should make it lower than $100 delivered)

9) Looks C Most people don't like the body but I don't think it looks to bad

10) Features B yes it's brushed but its also cheap , It does come with a pretty good  2.4GHz radio system that only takes 4AA's and the esc is powerful enough to deal with upgraded brushed motors to at least 15 turn's , Lets not forget it does include a decent battery and it does have a charger So I feel justified to give it this grade.



 According to a grade calculator I found that comes out to . A 3.00 grade average or a B

 You can use the link below or Click the link up top to go to My page dedicated to my time with this truck.

http://junkstuffandthings.blogspot.com/p/zmt-10-information.html

Remember this is part one part 2 will cover my upgrade to brushless.

ZD Racing ZMT-10 to hobbyking / turnigy stadium king 2wd truggy to Traxxas part # interchange sheet

All right I finally did a spreadsheet of the part number interchange over and I even included Traxxas part numbers so let the swapping begin .

( This list doesn't include upgrade parts of any sort there are other parts for the Traxxas rustler that will fit but would qualify as a upgrade. Some hardware has been left out of this list such as screws due to there universal nature)

I have added links to some of the part #s to places where they can be bought .( Not responsible for dead links or links to the wrong product ) verify what your ordering before you order.


Most Traxxas components are not a direct fit and may require filing of components , enlargement of mounting holes to allow installation or require related hardware such as screws .

ZD Racing name	common name	ZD Racing part #	hobby king part#	Traxxas equivalent if available
base board	lower chassis	10001	023000004
upper deck	upper chassis plate	10002
front hydraulic rack	front shock tower	10003	023000005
rear hydraulic rack	rear shock tower	10004		3638
rear lower arm	rear control arm	10005	023000006	3655x
front lower arm	front control arm	10006	023000007	3631
rear suspension pin long	rear inner suspension pin	10007	023000008	3739
front suspension pin arms long	front inner suspension pin	10008	023000009	3739
pins for rear suspension arms short	rear outer suspension pins	10009	023000010	3739
gear case left and right	transmission case halves	10010
gear cover	spur gear cover	10011	023000011
motor fixed strengthening plate	motor support	10012
adjustable spring and mount	slipper clutch components	10013	023000012
differential shell	differential case	10014	023000013
big gear shaft	transmission top gear shaft	10015
small gear shaft	idler gear shaft	10016	023000014
30T gear	idler gear	10017	023000015
22T gear	top gear	10018	023000016
83T gear	spur gear	10019	023000017
differential gear set	differential assembly	10020	023000018
Big bevel gear of differential gear 13T	differential side ear	10021	023000019
small bevel gear of differential gear 10T	small bevel gear	10022	023000020
60T gear	differential drive gear	10023
motor gear 25T	25 Tooth pinion gear	10024	023000021	4725
front damper set	front shock set	10025	023000022
rear damper set	rear shock set	10026	023000023
front shock springs		10027	023000024
rear shock springs		10028	023000025
shock absorber piston group	shock rebuild kit	10029
front shock shafts set		10030
rear shock shaft set		10031
receiver cover /switch rack		10032
battery cover/ battery gland ball	battery hold down set	10033	023000026
rear wheel axle	rear stub axle	10034	023000027
front wheel axle	front stub axle	10035	023000028	3637
rear drive axle	dogbone	10036	023000029
transmission cups	transmission out put / inner drive	10037	023000030
rear axle holder	rear hub	10038	023000031	3652
steering arm	front hub	10039	023000032	3636

Most Traxxas components are not a direct fit and may require filing of components , enlargement of mounting holes to allow installation or require related hardware such as screws .

ZD Racing name	common name	ZD Racing part #	hobby king part#	Traxxas equivalent if available
portal holder	caster block	10040	023000033	3632
steering group	steering bell-crank	10041	023000034
steering connector plate		10042	023000035
steering axles	steering pivot	10043	023000036
front/lower suspension arm strengthening plate	tie bar / hinge pin brace	10044	023000037	2532
defense board	front bumper	10045	023000038
suspension arm mount	front bulkhead	10046	023000039	2530
motor protector		10047	023000040
shell pillar	body post	10048	023000041
Row clip	wire clip	10049	023000042
servo rocker	servo arm	10050
front hexagonal wheel seat	front wheel hex	10051	023000043	3654
rear hexagonal wheel seat	rear wheel hex	10052	023000044	1654
front upper rod group	front camber links	10053	023000045	3641
rear upper rod group	rear camber links	10054	023000046	3641
steering rod set	steering links	10055	023000047
servo rod	center link	10056
rim	wheel	10057	023000048
front tire and sponge	front tire and insert	10058	023000049
rear tire and sponge	rear tire and insert	10059	023000050
motor cover		10060	023000051
PVC body		10061	023000052
PVC body		10062
antenna tube		10063		1726
server fixed columns	servo mount	10064	023000053
shock ball seat / shock cap ball seat	shock ends	10065	023000054
servo crank set	servo horn adapters	10066	023000055
asbestos paper friction pad	slipper pads	10067	023000056
differential asbestos paper pads	differential gasket	10068	023000057
shock absorber seal ring	shock seal kit	10069
differential seal ring	differential o-ring	10070	023000058
front / rear shock absorber cylinder block	shock body set front and rear	10071
shock cap	upper shock cap	10072
shock adjustment ring	shock preload adjuster	10073
shock spring lower seat		10074
shock seal cover	lower shock cap	10075
e button 2.5 0.4T	E clip 2.5mm	10076	023000059
front lower arm screw	caster block to hub screw	10077	023000060
screw rod	shoulder screws	10078		3642

Most Traxxas components are not a direct fit and may require filing of components , enlargement of mounting holes to allow installation or require related hardware such as screws .

ZD Racing name	common name	ZD Racing part #	hobby king part#	Traxxas equivalent if available
steering ball screw	ball stud	10079
bulb	hollow balls	10080
steel pin 2*10	axle pin	10101	023000062
pins for front  arm short	front outer control arm pin	10152	023000064
axle of	5 mm axle shim	10153	249000084	1985

GENS ACE 5000mAh 40C 7.4V Hardcase Lipo Battery Pack ROAR approval Capacity: 5000mAh Voltage: 7.4V Size: 138 * 46.5 * 25mm (L * W * H) Weight:  288g Discharge: 40C   Continuous, 80C Burst Charge rate: 5C charging acceptable Application :Gens ace rechargeable 2S car lipo battery with high capacity of 5000mAh & high burst power of 40C for 1/8 & 1/10 RC car model such as Traxxas Slash, Emaxx,Bandit, Rustler version, HPI Strada XB 1/10 RTR Electric Buggy, Kyosho GP 4WD RACING TRUCK etc. Team Associated SC8, etc.  Fast charging by 5C is workable. Roar Legal. Note: NO bullet connectors included. Must use high current 4.0mm bullet connector with this battery.

Tamiya Female JST-XH 2S Harness for Hard case Lipo Tamiya Female JST-XH 2S Harness for Hard case Lipo

broke it 1.2

looks like I broke the ZD Racing ZMT-10 again at least this is a simple fix that should be expected eventually with just about any RTR car. The stock servo broke.

winter fun

Well below are acouple of videos of some of my rc's playing in the snow and since I know some one will ask some where some time there is also a video of me expressing my opinions on water proofing for playing in snow .

What kinda water proofing do I do for playing in the snow with my RC truck's

SNOW brushless 2S 7.4volt driving video Turnigy1/10th Stadium King / ZD Racing ZMT-10

Tamiya clodbuster first snow run of the season .

Tamiya clodbuster second snow of the season.

More video's of the zmt-10 / turnigy stadium king in action

Well I posted some more video's of the turnigy stadium king / zmt-10 in action but im not really ready to post my final review yet .

I still have not gotten a replacment lipo charger yet and Im also waiting for my mild brushless system to be delivered mot to come. 

MRP Ripper

Improving your steering system on a Turnigy stadium king or ZD Racing zmt-10

Removing slop from the steering system

Most of the play in the steering can be attributed to 2 bushings being to long . They can be seen here in the picture below

You will need a shim with a inner diameter of 4.5mm or a material you can make a 4.5mm hole in to act as a shim. I actually used some lexan spaces I had handy . Slip one over the bushing .

Then re-install in bellcrank and test for play if bell crank moves freely and play has been reduced to a satisfactory level repeat for other side . On one side I used a shim on the bottom of the bushing and on the top.

The next thing that causes play is the link that runs to the servo .

I recommend just replacing it with a adjustable link with ball end's ( I installed the aluminum servo arm just because it wasn't doing anything just sitting in my parts box)

Now the only remaining play is in the stock servo which isn't very much at all.

keeping your servo saver tight

remove bell crank system add a washer or shim with a 7mm inner diameter at the bottom of the bell-crank shaft (mine was made from copper)

Then install a o-ring on the bottom of the threaded portion below the adjusting nut .

reassemble and the adjusting nut should not be able to self adjust .

shim your Transmission and differential .

What you will need a assortment of 3 mm shims and 5 mm shims in various thicknesses 

All this is trial and error and takes time to complete but you will be rewarded with a transmission that will last much longer than if you had not done this  If you have a brushless model or plan to upgrade to a brushless system I consider the differential shimming manditory.

1. Remove your transmission from the car an remove one side cover.(If you still have bushing's install bearings now). 
2. Then remove the differential and idler gears from the case.
3. Place one shim on the input shaft.
4. temporarily reinstall the side cover with a few screws tightened snugly try to slide the input in and out  to test for play  if it doesn't move rotate to test for binding.
5. If rotation is stiff dissemble and try a thinner shim . If shaft slides in in out freely add a additional shim . experiment with different thicknesses till shaft rotates freely but doesn't move in and out of the case..
6. Re install idler gear with one shim re install side cover as before but with a few more screws and test for binding . If binding is present try a thinner shim . If no binding is present try a thicker shim or install a second shim .    

Now lets look at the differential gears mine had lots of play .

1. Well after you remove the 4 screws on the side you will be greeted with this .
2. remove the center bevel gears and proceed to remove the e clips from the out-drives.
3. Pull the out drives from the case halves and add a 5 mm shim to one as seen in picture number 2 
4. Add and remove shims as necessary there should be just a light bit of resistance to rotation and installation of the e-clip should not be difficult .
5. With slop removed from the out-drives the only thing left is the play between the gears themselves .
6. Start by installing one 3mm shim behind each gear as in picture number 3 , both shims must be of the same thickness.
7.  Reassemble with just a pair of screw to test for play . If binding is felt remove shims and try a thinner  shim or no shim at all . 

I should also point out I added a o-ring over my out-drive as can be seen in picture number 2 to help protect the bearing  It fits perfectly in the gap between the out drive and the case .

Here is a video that may help you understand what I'm going for a little better.

damage

Pic's of all the damage I have done to this truck This includes 2 packs or 17 minutes of ruff jumping and harsh landings + running in to a telephone pole and then   3 battery packs or ruffly 30 minutes of running it in to a fence post. 

Oh yeah the body Is pretty much junk now to .

Top ten things you should do after buying a Zmt-10 or 2wd Turnigy stadium king .

For the most part most of this applies to all ready to run or RTR Cars. 

1. Break in your motor by using the water break in method.
2. Replace the brass pinion with a steel or aluminum pinion . (brass wears very fast )
3. Experiment with different pinion gear tooth counts .
4. Remove the play in the steering system .( look at my other post)
5. Drill holes in rims to allow air to escape .
6. Replace bushings with bearings
7. Shim transmission gears and shafts to remove play.
8. Shim differential ( look at other post)
9. Replace broken parts with Traxxas or  aftermarket parts for the Traxxas rustler.  
10. When ready upgrade to more powerful brushed motor or a mild brushless system.