Got a new charger

Well I needed a new charger and after looking high and low I found something both cheap and full of features. The GT Power X-Charger C6 is a 50 watt charger capable of charging at up to 6.0 amps discharging at up to 1 amp and can balance discharge at up to 300 mah per cell. 

FOR FULL SPEC'S LOOK HERE  valuehobby

                                                

Now to be honest the manual is plenty thick and does a good job of covering what you need to know to operate the charger and explaining its features. It does have the common china translation problems with a word or 2 but most people should not have a problem understanding what its telling you . This charger does require a external power supply but they can be found pretty easy .Value hobby even sells this bundled with a power supply for those that do not wish to source there own . 

To me the menu is easy to use and should not confuse new owners especially if they read the manual. 

The only thing I wish was different was that value hobby had included a cable with a TRX adapter for people with Traxxas systems to speed up there setup time .

 To me this was the best $21 bucks I could have spent.

I would also like to say Value hobbies shipping charge of  $3.99 was a pleasant surprise as was the 3 day delivery .

More video's of the zmt-10 / turnigy stadium king in action

Well I posted some more video's of the turnigy stadium king / zmt-10 in action but im not really ready to post my final review yet .

I still have not gotten a replacment lipo charger yet and Im also waiting for my mild brushless system to be delivered mot to come. 

MRP Ripper

Improving your steering system on a Turnigy stadium king or ZD Racing zmt-10

Removing slop from the steering system

Most of the play in the steering can be attributed to 2 bushings being to long . They can be seen here in the picture below

You will need a shim with a inner diameter of 4.5mm or a material you can make a 4.5mm hole in to act as a shim. I actually used some lexan spaces I had handy . Slip one over the bushing .

Then re-install in bellcrank and test for play if bell crank moves freely and play has been reduced to a satisfactory level repeat for other side . On one side I used a shim on the bottom of the bushing and on the top.

The next thing that causes play is the link that runs to the servo .

I recommend just replacing it with a adjustable link with ball end's ( I installed the aluminum servo arm just because it wasn't doing anything just sitting in my parts box)

Now the only remaining play is in the stock servo which isn't very much at all.

keeping your servo saver tight

remove bell crank system add a washer or shim with a 7mm inner diameter at the bottom of the bell-crank shaft (mine was made from copper)

Then install a o-ring on the bottom of the threaded portion below the adjusting nut .

reassemble and the adjusting nut should not be able to self adjust .

shim your Transmission and differential .

What you will need a assortment of 3 mm shims and 5 mm shims in various thicknesses 

All this is trial and error and takes time to complete but you will be rewarded with a transmission that will last much longer than if you had not done this  If you have a brushless model or plan to upgrade to a brushless system I consider the differential shimming manditory.

1. Remove your transmission from the car an remove one side cover.(If you still have bushing's install bearings now). 
2. Then remove the differential and idler gears from the case.
3. Place one shim on the input shaft.
4. temporarily reinstall the side cover with a few screws tightened snugly try to slide the input in and out  to test for play  if it doesn't move rotate to test for binding.
5. If rotation is stiff dissemble and try a thinner shim . If shaft slides in in out freely add a additional shim . experiment with different thicknesses till shaft rotates freely but doesn't move in and out of the case..
6. Re install idler gear with one shim re install side cover as before but with a few more screws and test for binding . If binding is present try a thinner shim . If no binding is present try a thicker shim or install a second shim .    

Now lets look at the differential gears mine had lots of play .

1. Well after you remove the 4 screws on the side you will be greeted with this .
2. remove the center bevel gears and proceed to remove the e clips from the out-drives.
3. Pull the out drives from the case halves and add a 5 mm shim to one as seen in picture number 2 
4. Add and remove shims as necessary there should be just a light bit of resistance to rotation and installation of the e-clip should not be difficult .
5. With slop removed from the out-drives the only thing left is the play between the gears themselves .
6. Start by installing one 3mm shim behind each gear as in picture number 3 , both shims must be of the same thickness.
7.  Reassemble with just a pair of screw to test for play . If binding is felt remove shims and try a thinner  shim or no shim at all . 

I should also point out I added a o-ring over my out-drive as can be seen in picture number 2 to help protect the bearing  It fits perfectly in the gap between the out drive and the case .

Here is a video that may help you understand what I'm going for a little better.